October 17th, 2021


17 октября

Сутки шли под слегка раскрученной генуей, чтобы на якорную стоянку у острова Базаруто прийти в рекомендованное в описании маршрута время. А именно: днём и желательно за два часа до полной воды. Что нам сделать и удалось. В конце поста выдержки из описания плавания в Мозамбикском проливе.
Рыбу не поймали.
Зато, когда убирали геннакер, я выпустил один конец верёвки от его чулка, и его поймала ступенька на мачте.
Оля на следующий день хотела лезть её вызволять, но отложили подвиг, когда придём на стоянку. Что и было сделано незамедлительно. Причём без использования подъёмных механизмов. Оля забралась выше первой краспицы по ступенькам, страхуя себя жумаром.
На стоянке уже стояла одна лодка. Хозяин, Арви, через несколько минут, как только мы отдали якорь, подъехал к нам на динги. Рассказал, что идёт с Реюньона в Ричардс Бэй. Здесь пережидают, как и мы, встречный ветер. Пригласил на вечеринку на берег. Он уже познакомился с местными. Говорит, что дружелюбный народ. Даже съездил с ними в город, купил симкарту. Два с половиной часа туда обратно по заливу.
Мы отказались от приглашения. Не хочется рисковать выходом на берег. Нагуляемся ещё.

За сутки прошли 106 миль.

Наши координаты: 21.38Ю 35.26В

При подготовке к переходу, кроме карт, всегда стараюсь купить лоции. Много уже есть книг, что-то добываю в Интернете (как это описание, найденное на Noonsite), часто своим опытом делятся между собой яхтсмены. Сегодня часть пути шли не по карточным изобатам, а по маршрутным точкам, оставленными ходившими здесь яхтсменами. На электронных картах почти каждый прибрежный район имеет предупреждение о неточности. Шторма, течения в устьях рек могут изменить профиль дна. Что мы сегодня и видели.

Вот выдержки из описания маршрута, которым мы идём. Без него было бы значительно труднее.
Дес Касон 13 лет ходит в этом регионе. Кстати, он даёт свои контакты и просит всегда обращаться за бесплатной консультацией:

The general consensus amongst Indian Ocean cruisers is that the Mozambique Channel is the most technically challenging of their circumnavigation. Having done 40,000NM up and down the channel to Madagascar, Tanzania and Kenya from his base in Richards Bay South Africa over the last 13 years, Des Cason has learnt it is a stretch of water not like any other.

О маршруте от Виктории до Мадагаскара.

Victoria to Cap D’Ambre: 570nm bearing 219T.
This section of your cruise will be the most challenging before you reach the Mozambique Channel proper below 16S.
The SE trades from the end of March/April blows onto the east coast of Madagascar.
Due to the mountainous ridge running up Madagascar closer to the east coast the west coast is pretty arid and dry with very little influence from the SE trade wind.
However the east coast bears the brunt of this wind and it is common to hear that the east coast has two seasons – the rain season and the wet season with constant onshore moist wind. The mountains cause uplift and pretty constant rain throughout the year.
The area above Diego Suarez +- 12S is no exception except the wind has an escape around the top and as a result from April to end Oct you will have consistent SSESE25-30+ with the odd period of calm in between with SE20+!
This compression zone extends to the NE and NW of Cap D’Ambre in the area bounded by 9S 46E – 7S 50E – 12S 55E – 14S 50E.
This consistent wind is compounded by the swell angle which is dominant from 160T and invariable runs at 6-8 seconds. In addition you have the Equatorial Current coming from Australia hitting the coast south of Diego Suarez and splitting into two. The north flowing section can run anything from 2-4 kts depending on the wind.
This time of year (April to Oct) the SE trade extends up to the Seychelles, but obviously reduces in strength as it gets further north. On average you can expect SE10-15 in Seychelles on departure and progressively increasing as you get closer to the compression zone.
Picking the right gap south is in the realms of “black art”, but over the past 5 years have had some success but the majority of yachts have had to detour quite a bit to the west due to the harsh conditions. It is not uncommon to have a forecast from 3 different models of 25+ and the yachts’ experience 35-40 in gusts. This is due to systems to the SE of the compression zone driving ridges of increased pressure in a NW direction and are totally unpredictable.
The one advantage is that the further west you deviate from the rhumb line, the more the wind and effect of swell and current diminishes but adds extra time and mileage to the trip.
It can be argued that with the Covid ”crisis” there is no burning need to get to Mada and makes the determination to round Cap D’Ambre a dubious proposition.
Ensure you are adequately provisioned.
Do not underestimate the challenges of this short trip south and consider whether the potential pleasures of the Seychelles are worth it. My personal experience is that Mayotte (1st world – French) 200nm west of Cap D Ambre is a better proposition.

В нынешнем переходе от Мадагаскара к Мозамбику мы пользовались этой частью статьи:

Cap St Andre is notorious for tropical squalls and lightning the closer you get to November, so if your timing puts you there in November – beware. A yacht 40m from us was struck at 0700 in the morning in Baly Bay, which is something you don’t need especially facing the run down the channel. If in doubt stay 20-30nm offshore and head due west to Moz.
Cap St Andre across the channel is the crux of your tactics as the decision taken there will set you up for the rest.
Having done the crossing 7 times we have found this route the best:
Head 270T from Cap St Andre towards Ilha Moz and once you hit the Moz current approx.70nm from the coast turn south. This route uses the confluence of the south flowing current from Cap D ‘Ambre and the north flowing current from the south which meet at Cap St Andre and then turns due west until it hits the Moz current flowing south. There are always some turbulent conditions at Cap St Andre because of the two currents meeting, but nothing serious as it flows at 1.5 -2kts max. The west flowing current can run up to 2.5kts.
Heading SW 225T from Cap St André puts you in the north flowing current and with a predominantly SE/S/SW wind this results in a tough beat into the wind and current against you. One yacht lay hove to south of Juan De Nova for two days in 35kts SW and 6m swells!
Getting over to Moz also puts you in the favorable quadrant with lighter winds in the event of a heavy SW gale coming up from the south, as the wind usually sweeps across the channel in a NE direction and the bulk of the wind will be found in the middle of the channel towards the west coast of Mad.
This westerly route from Cap St Andre to Ilha Mozambique has the advantage of many islands to visit south of Ilha Moz (the Primeiras) with hardly any population. In addition you have two hide aways at Bazaruto and Inhambane en route with an additional one at Inhaca Island just outside Maputo. This could break the trip into 3 stages of approx 250nm each which is manageable in between the strong southerlies.
Bear in mind that the SW’s coming up the coast are bent by the land mass and when anchored at Bazaruto or Inhambane the wind is more SSE and you have good protection.
The main disadvantage of this route over to the Moz coast is that often there is not much wind, so you must have some spare diesel. It beats the mid channel route as you have up to 3kts of current with you which compensates for the lack of wind
You will recognize the current by the appearance of a distinct line of “puff ball” clouds which lie directly above the current.
We have elected this route as apposed to the 2 alternatives for the following reasons.
Direct route Cap St Andre to Bazaruto – heading 225/230 deg T
The Westerly flowing equatorial current hits Mad south of Diego Suarez on the east coast and splits into two. The current around the top of Cap D’Ambre flows SW down the NW coast and meets the southerly flowing section that goes down the east coast and around the bottom at Toliara and up the coast at Cap St Andre. This causes turbulence and washing machine conditions and attempting a direct route to Bazaruto in light conditions puts you in a 2kt+ negative current as far south as Juan De Nova. Invariably the wind is SW/S/SE. The SE works for a beam reach across, but is not guaranteed. Taking the route direct across to Moz gives you up to 2kts favorable current heading 270T from the confluence of these two currents meeting at Cap St Andre.
We have had two runs direct to Bazaruto on this route but maybe we were lucky with the wind. The NE in this area is unreliable and normally dies after a day or two.

О погоде здесь. Сейчас у нас получается по классике, как и описывает автор. Нам хватило северного ветра, чтобы дойти до Базаруто. Встали здесь, пережидаем очередную депрессию с южными ветрами.

South of Cap St Andre to Inhambane Zavora Mozambique:
The weather in the southern section of the Moz Channel is determined by the movement from west to east of high and low pressure systems coming around the bottom of SA and driving up the SE coast.
With an approaching high pressure with anti clockwise rotation, it drives S into the bottom of the channel and as it moves east the N edge of this system swings the wind to SE/ENE. Depending on how fast the high moves east the ENE conditions which are perfect for the crossing could last up to 5 days. This period is just enough to get from Cap St Andre to Bazaruto (650nm) as inevitably a low pressure with SWS/SSE 25+ follows. These wind switches occur as regular as clockwork every 4-6 days.
Occasionally a low pressure system is driven up the channel by a ridge of high pressure behind it, and in these circumstances you can experience S35+ for min 24 hrs with 6-9m swell and are dealing with survival conditions.
The major factor in the channel is the effect of wind against current which sets up steep waves normally in the 4-6 m range and extend up to 70nm offshore on the Moz coast. These are conditions you need to avoid and careful planning is required.
The channel can be divided into two parts – the NW quadrant and the SE quadrant. If you were to draw a straight line between Cap St Andre [16 13S 44 24E] and Zavora [24 30S 35 08E] the section to the west of this line is the NW and to the east the SE.
As S frontal systems come up the channel they are always as a consequence of an intense low pressure system and with clock wise rotation clip the land mass at Zavora and sweep in a NE direction towards the Mada west coast – the SE section.
Despite the fact that the west coast of Mada has a very mild northerly flowing current the brunt of the wind is experienced on the west coast of Mada.
The center of the surfing culture in Mada is centered on Ifaty [23 06S 43 34E] which says it all.
The Moz coast north of Zavora is less exposed and the wind normally is more SSSE than SW, but with wind against current (2-3kts flowing south) is not to be trifled with.
Bazaruto Archipelago is the tried and tested half way stop for a safe transit down the channel and has been a haven for yachties for as long as yachties have come down the channel. Those adventurous souls who ignored my warnings about the west coast of Mada (and on the advice of people who have never sailed it) without exception fortunately lived to regret it.

Спасибо, автору за полезную информацию! Здорово, что человек делится своим знаниями, причём совершенно бескорыстно!